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Journey
into Spring
It is not often that one can travel from one season to another in a short
range of space and of time.
But this became possible for me due to a combination of circumstances
during my hike in Massachusetts.
In that state the Trail runs roughly North-South and the elevation runs
from 3936 feet at Mount Greylock, the highest point in Massachusetts -- at the
North end -- to 660
feet at the crossing of the Housatonic River in Sheffield, near the southern
end.
The gradual change in elevation and the 9-day lapse of time gave rise to a
dramatic change. It's possible that the small change in latitude during my travel (about
3/4 of a degree) played a part, too in the climate changes I experienced.
On these treks I like to take notes in my Nature journal on the flora,
fauna and physical environment, and lately, to take accompanying photographs.
This time I endeavored to learn more about the birds inhabiting the Trail
neighborhood.
Since many of these are small and elusive and hard to see, I studied bird
song tapes before the trek.
During the hike, as I heard a new bird's
vocalization, I represented the call in my journal phonetically using a system I
devised.
When I collated these at home I was astonished to find I had noted about
45 species, besides the ones identified by sight!
I hasten to add that I did not immediately know the identity of all 45,
but made careful notes for later recognition. In some cases I'm sure I have
duplicated, as a given bird may have several types of songs and calls.
Some
stories
The
people of Berkshire County are more aware of their natural environment than
their urban counterparts in the East of the state.
But as with Maine, certain legends and impressions persist in
conversation.
One is that Massachusetts abounds in "coyodogs," a supposed
cross between Eastern coyotes and domestic dogs that have gone feral.
I heard coyotes on two occasions, both times at a large distance: once
in an evening when they engaged in social yipping, and another during mid-day
when there was barked communication (enough to concern me momentarily, but
unnecessarily, that it might have been a pack of gone-wild dogs.)
Coyote scat was also seen at several places on the trail, always on a
prominent stone in the middle of the footpath.
The elusiveness of the coyote and its great population relative to the
sparsity of wild dogs make me think that any such cross-breeding must be
infrequent.
Another amusing folklore concerns some small, biting flies that swarm in
early spring in the woods of Berkshire County.
The locals uniformly told me those are "gnats."
No one seemed to connect them with the black flies that are prevalent in their
neighboring states of Vermont and New Hampshire.
So I took several specimens of the little insects that bit me and brought
them home for identification.
Our Cooperative Extension entomologist identified them all as black
flies.
Perhaps its just that in Massachusetts no one wants to say the b---
word!!
Although it is common knowledge that the black bear and moose are
populous in Maine, it is not as widely known that these animals have now
penetrated the Bay State.
The
local people were well aware of these animals, however. I found two excellent fresh sets of Moose tracks several miles apart, as
if they might be two distinct individuals.
I also noted one instance of fresh black bear scat.
My chancing upon them in just the limited range of my walk indicates to
me that they are well-established and may be surprisingly numerous.
On the third evening I enjoyed a rare campfire before crawling into my
tent.
(I usually am too short of time after cooking supper, and too fatigued
for firewood gathering).
It started to rain late in the evening, which put out the fire.
Early in the morning of May 18 the rain began to sound solid on my tent.
I thought "Sleet?" and immediately cocooned myself in my
sleeping bag and went back to sleep.
When I awoke at daylight I unzipped the tent door and looked out into a world of
snow!
Two inches had fallen, and a couple more by the time I got down from
Crystal Mountain.
There was even snow in the valleys.
The townspeople assured me that snowfall this late in the spring was very unusual.
May is early in the hiking season, but I met a few other hikers, including one
young thruhiker who had left Springer Mountain, Georgia in February! I
also met a middle-aged hiker whose trail name is "The Admiral."
In a blue raincoat, green shorts, stout boots and large floppy tan hat, with an
orange whistle dangling from his neck and walking stick in hand, he struck a Tom Bombadil-like
figure on the Trail. He said that he was finishing the AT, having
done 1300 miles last year, and expecting "to finish the other 900."
Western Massachusetts people got their first good fall of precipitation in a
long while. Most
small watercourses were full. The larger streams were running nearly full, and at a
moderate volume. Finding sufficient drinking water was never a concern.
Although this brought on muddy conditions in the normally wet spots, the
accompanying cold weather brought one unexpected treat. For several days I
had the enviable experience of walking through the occasional bogs and swamps without
encountering a single mosquito! This enabled me to enjoy Nature in the
wetlands in a way I had rarely before.
Some
highlights
It was a time of wildflowers. Though the forest at higher altitudes might
be generally brown and bare, there was always a bit of color at trailside from the early
bloomers. Surprisingly there was a marked difference in microclimate from
one side of a mountain to the other, even at the same altitude. For
example the trout lily was barely budded on the North face of Mount Williams,
but in full flower on the South, which had longer direct exposure to sunlight.
In southern Massachusetts the Eastern Chipmunks were very much in evidence, warning me out of a
territory that seemed to extend at least 50 feet around their holes under stones
or tree roots. At
first encounter there were so many along the trail I named the area
"Chipmunk City." But the concentration continued for about the
next 15 miles, so I redubbed the area "Chipmunk Megalopolis."
The only exception was an area clearly marked by a weasel, who must have cleaned
them all out in his territory.
Treeline is noticeably higher there on the
mountains than in Maine, due to the lower geographic latitude, so they are
forested from bottom to top.
Once in a while though I entered high birch-beech zones, and even a few
expanses of spruce-fir, reminding me a bit of my home state. Overall it was a
typically rough stretch of New England trail, with mountain climbing, roots and
stones in the trailway, and occasional rock ledges or boulders to scramble over. But some
sections were garden-like, with a humus-strewn footpath and a border of sorrel,
ferns, grass and moss, inviting an easy stroll.
The weather during the 9-day trip varied in temperature (lowest about 25º
F. , highest about 70º F.) and sky conditions (two days of light rain, snow or
overcast, gratefully with no thunderstorms, with the rest fair or with just a
morning mist.)
I had a few buggy hours. The wind was welcome to keep me cool and to
disperse the few flies and mosquitoes most days.
Special
things seen or heard
Paradoxically, though the hike was almost all above 1500 feet, the Trail
included long stretches through bogs. In these moist areas, among the early
spring flowers were the trout lily and common wood sorrel. In the semi-wet areas
and adjacent to ponds the false hellebore, on luxurious tall green stalks, was
getting ready to flower; and in the uplands I noticed Canada
mayflower just about to bloom.
Here and there vernal pools were still brimming with water, which had ponded up
from snowmelt and rain. I peered into several but could find no egg masses
of frogs or salamanders. It may have been too early, or, more likely, they
were in hidden parts of the pools, attached under branches that stick into the
water, and amidst organic debris.
In two prominent places along the Trail beavers had taken advantage of the waterflow and terrain. One
marvelous dam was a 60 foot perfect semicircle (see photo below).
Although it backed up water which flooded the Trail, I was more than compensated
by the sight of the work of these animal engineers.
I heard a few slitherings in the dry leaves that I thought might be
a toad or a snake. Sure enough there was the familiar Eastern garter snake.
If I walk at length in a New
England wood I count myself as having missed something if I do not encounter one
of our colorful recumbent reptiles.
The forest understory had elderberry, striped maple, hobblebush,
shadbush, and alder and was
also graced by azalea, mountain laurel and
rhododendron, but exclusively at certain altitudes.
(I never saw them in
the valleys.) One specimen of Striped maple was 5.2 inches in diameter,
the largest I have ever seen North of Virginia, of this modest, short-lived tree
species.
Defying the usual rule of human avoidance, there are times when the animals come
to us. Almost every trail shelter (known regionally as "leantos") had
empty tuna fish cans hung upside down from small ropes on the ceiling. The
purpose is to allow hikers to suspend their food safely from mice, who cannot
clamber around the can. The mice come in the leanto anyway, searching for crumbs from
careless campers, and for nesting material (such as toilet paper, which they
shred copiously). One odd behavior I noticed is that they bring in small
stones almost all of uniform size (approximately 1-1/4" x 3/4" x
1/2")and leave them in various places. I was puzzled by why they do
this, although it reminded me of the stories about pack rats.
Resident porcupines also regularly visited two of the leantos at night to chew
the edges of foundations boards and bunks, differing only in relative
boldness. Around midnight the one at the Kay Wood Leanto vocalized long
and plaintively before timidly chewing on the foundation boards.
Eventually he dared to come into the sleeping space but seemed intimidated by
the breathing and snores of the five large mammals slumbering there (one of whom
was only feigning sleep, but actually playing reporter for the Maine Nature
News!) Someone sneezed and the porky fled, coming back in about a half
hour, to start the procedure all over. At October Mountain Leanto the
trail crew had installed a bear hoist -- not to hoist bears, of course! -- but
for hikers to raise their food bags beyond reach of black bears, one or more of
whom had become habituated to browsing that site. After the installation
last year, and hiker education, there were no further reports of bear
visits.
Observation
List
Amphibians
and reptiles seen or heard:
Eastern garter snake; green frog; spring peeper, tree frog.
Birds
identified by sight or sound: American robin; barred owl;
black and white warbler; black-capped chickadee;
black-throated blue warbler; black-throated green warbler; blue jay; bobolink; Canada goose; catbird; common crow; common raven; dark-eyed junco; downy woodpecker; Eastern phoebe; Eastern wood peewee;
evening grosbeak; field sparrow; flicker; hermit thrush; marsh wren; ovenbird; pileated woodpecker;
red-breasted nuthatch;
red-eyed vireo; red-tailed hawk; red-winged blackbird; ruffed grouse; rufous-sided towhee;
savannah sparrow? (or Virginia rail?); swallow (species?); tufted titmouse; white-throated sparrow; wild turkey;
wood thrush.
Insects
and arachnids seen: ants; black flies; bumblebees; butterflies (including Monarch
); dragonflies; grasshoppers; horse flies; mosquitoes; moths (including
common wood nymph); wasps; water striders; web-weaving spiders.
Mammals
identified by sight or sign: beaver; black bear; Eastern chipmunk;
field mouse; gray squirrel; moose; porcupine; red squirrel; weasel;
white-tailed deer; vole.
Tree
and bush flowers
seen:
elderberry,
hobblebush; maple; meadowsweet; purple azalea; shadbush.
Wildflowers
seen:
blue violet; buttercup;
coltsfoot; common wood sorrel; dandelion; Jack-in-the-pulpit; marsh marigold; painted trillium; purple trillium; sarsaparilla; trout lily;
wild strawberry; yellow violet; yellow wood
sorrel. |